For a smart original take on great seafood, visit a railway arch close to the Thames in Deptford

Sharkbait & Swim, Arch 11, 4 Deptford Market Yard, London SE8 4BX (info@sharkbaitandswim.com for bookings). Small and large plates £4.50-£22, wine from £26

Oyster lovers travel hopefully. It’s not that we think we’ll always be the ones to dodge the “bad” oyster. We don’t fret about the bad oyster at all. That’s a paranoia for oyster agnostics, for the ones who think they ought to like them, but will quietly admit they are suspicious of the proposition. Our hope is that we’ll encounter not just the good oyster, but the better oyster and perhaps even the very best, for not all oysters are made equal. Some deliver that invigorating hit of saline and briskness, but lack body. Others are more substantial, but a touch one-note.